Boost Lash Retention: Avoid These 4 Errors
"My clients' lash retention varies so much..." "I thought I applied them well, but I don't understand why they fall out quickly..."
Eyelash extension retention is significantly influenced not only by the products used and client aftercare but also by the lash artist's "application technique." Improper application can lead to poor retention and potentially cause skin or eye irritation.
This article, based on the provided PDF materials, details common application mistakes (NG application states) that reduce lash extension longevity and discusses ideal application techniques. We hope this serves as an opportunity to review your own techniques.
What is the Ideal Application State?
First, let's define the most ideal application state:
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Appropriate amount of glue
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Perfect match between the curl of the natural lash and the extension
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Secure attachment from base to tip
Even for highly skilled technicians, achieving this state for every single lash is challenging, but this is the safest condition that offers the longest retention. Aiming for this ideal is crucial.
Warning! NG Application States That Cause Poor Retention
Next, let's look at four common NG (No-Good) application states that shorten retention periods and cause extensions to fall out prematurely.
Check 1: Lifting at the Base
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State: The base of the artificial lash is detached and lifted away from the natural lash.
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Cause: This is a common mistake for beginners. The base must never be detached, regardless of the curl type.
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Impact: Physical stress during face washing or daily life can easily cause peeling from the base, shortening retention. Furthermore, the lifted base can potentially touch the eyeball, causing irritation. Gaps at the base are particularly susceptible to physical stress and prone to peeling.
Check 2: Only Partially Attached
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State: Only parts of the artificial lash (e.g., two points) are bonded to the natural lash.
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Cause: This can happen when prioritizing speed, or even to experienced technicians when fatigued or lacking concentration. It might look attached at first glance, but the adhesion area is insufficient.
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Impact: Often combined with a lifted base, the small adhesion area makes the extension very prone to falling off due to physical stress.
Check 3: Insufficient Adhesion Area
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State: The contact area between the natural lash and the artificial lash is extremely small due to a narrow glue application range or poor attachment angle.
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Cause: Can occur due to variations in technicians' application range and methods.
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Impact: The bond is weak against physical stress, leading to shorter retention.
Check 4: Too Little Glue
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State: An extremely small amount of glue is applied to the artificial lash.
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Cause: Wiping off too much glue after dipping, or applying too slowly even with the correct amount of glue, can cause the glue surface to start curing before proper bonding.
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Impact: Adhesion strength is significantly reduced, causing extensions to fall off within a few days.
Caution! Using Too Much Glue
Conversely, what happens if too much glue is used?
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Impact: While retention might slightly increase, the aesthetic finish is compromised, leading to clumps or sticking adjacent lashes together. It also increases the risk of glue touching the eyelid, potentially causing allergies or skin problems. Besides looking bad, it can be dangerous and potentially injure the eyelid.
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Note: Applying additional layers of glue ("top coating" with glue) is strictly prohibited. It's essential to understand the characteristics of the glue being used and master the technique of applying the appropriate amount for a beautiful and safe application.
Tips for Enhancing Retention
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Natural Lash Flexibility: Thinner, natural lashes tend to be more flexible and absorb shock better, often leading to longer retention.
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Application Speed and Sliding: Applying too slowly or excessive sliding (stroking the extension along the natural lash to bond) can disrupt the glue's polymerization (curing) process, weakening the bond. Applying at the right speed with minimal sliding is key.
Conclusion: Meticulous Technique is Key to Retention and Safety
Eyelash extension retention varies greatly depending on subtle differences in application. Preventing basic mistakes like base lifting, insufficient adhesion area, and improper glue amounts is crucial for client satisfaction and safety.
Always strive for the ideal application state, understand the properties of your glue, and focus on meticulous and precise technique.
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